Leaf once said
: Men are big pig’s trotters
Ah, strung together… I remember in the previous “Pants Fashion Trends” that most men are insensitive to pants.
There are also small partners who are not convinced:
I have more pants than a top
It cannot be denied that there will be these rare and more refined men, but from the overall environment of men’s clothing, the status of pants is indeed “inferior” to the top.
For example, in the traditional men’s clothing customization, we often hear about shirt customization and suit customization, but rarely hear it
Pants can of course be customized.
Leaf means that tailors or brands that specialize in bespoke pants will be few and far between. More often in customization, pants are only used as a foil or can be said to be a matching existence of a suit top.
However, just like men who have always cared about pants, although there are few brands specializing in customized pants, they are also worth in-depth understanding.
Ye Zi will talk about the “King of Pants” brand today,
Perhaps after reading it, your understanding of pants will be more thorough, or even better, no longer think that it is just an accessory, and can truly appreciate what pants are like with quality and charm.
The king of pants, so arrogant?
I believe that many of the friends here may not know this Ambrosi Napoli, who does not even have its own website and stores now.
Indeed, as a custom-based pants brand, compared with other ready-to-wear brands, the share of the market share is much “narrow”, so why does it dare to be king?
In fact, it is not this brand that wins the “King of Pants” award, but the soul of the brand – the tailor
▲ Salvatore Ambrosi
” Neapolitan Pants King “
” Italian Pants King “
” One of the best pants manufacturers in the world ”
And so on are the praise for Salvatore Ambrosi himself and the brand.
When it comes to Naples, we all know that it is best known for its cozy “Neapolitan suit”.
In contrast, there are very few tailors and shops that focus solely on trousers, and the Ambrosi family is a rare exception that focuses only on pants.
The fourth generation of the family, Salvatore Ambrosi is now one of Italy’s most famous tailors, and under his leadership, the small studio model has also developed in the direction of branding.
In fact, in recent years, Salvatore Ambrosi has gradually gained fame in our country, especially in Hong Kong.
If it is a man who is accustomed to customization, you should know that since the brand currently does not have an official website and specific stores, the tailor will often cooperate with domestic brands to carry out customized services in the form of trunk show.
Although he is the king of pants, he mainly provides gentlemen’s pants items with mostly trousers, so it will be more loved by gentlemen who pursue high quality.
▲ Ambrosi Napoli pants
Born in Naples, Salvatore Ambrosi began learning to make pants with his family at the age of 8, and like the suits that are plentiful here, his pants follow the standards
In order to cope with the hot weather here, the ubiquitous light and comfortable wearing experience is very necessary, slim, snugly fit the leg but with little urgency, leaving enough room for you not to feel constrained.
At the same time clean
It is also an important reason for the addiction of many gentlemen.
Even when walking, the legs remain clean and unaffected by ripples, which is related to his sculptural tailoring, revealing a strong southern Italian style from the inside out.
However, depending on the customer’s customization requirements, Salvatore will also customize slightly thicker pants, such as wool and tweed pants. However, the shape line and comfort level can maintain the original good wearing experience, and there is not much change.
So, if you want to ask Salvatore, how can he dare to “ascend” the king of pants?
So in Leaf’s answer is,
His pants are not only wearable, but also like intriguing works of art
Take your pants to an artistic level
“Good pants, like good shoes, are items that men who know how to wear them can not do without.”
In Salvatore’s eyes, pants are no different from other pieces in menswear, the details that make a man, a gentleman’s extraordinary taste.
Perhaps with this concept, he also raised the production of pants to the level of a work of art, so that men can understand,
How “perfect” exactly can a pair of pants be?
Naturally, it doesn’t mean much to just blow it awkwardly.
Looking at Salvatore’s pants, the most important thing is to look at it
The biggest difference from other custom trousers is that the tailor has a sophisticated and unique technique of “sculptural tailoring”, so the waist of the Salvatore trousers is also known as ”
” Wide belt “
Holster side adjuster
It is a distinctive feature of Salvatore home pants, and the design of the wider and higher waist lengthens the line of the lower body. The adjustable buttons on the sides also allow people to eliminate the restraint of the belt, making it look easier and crisper.
Moreover, Salvatore’s waist is all made
This allows the waist to fit snugly with the waist, maintain perfect balance and be fixed at the waist, even when not wearing a belt, there is no state that cannot be removed.
At the same time, Salvatore’s pants are mostly in single or double pleats, and compared to other similar styles, perhaps only after the upper body will you understand the uniqueness of Salvatore.
We all know that pants will withstand the pressure of most men’s daily activities, so a pair of pants will have obvious deformation after a period of tossing, especially the pleats can no longer be kept perfect.
Not here in Salvatore.
The reason lies in him
Reinforced stitches are sewn for the pleats and every seam, such as the toe, pockets, etc., and are double-stitched
, which can maximize the waistband of the trousers after a long period of ravage, but still maintain the intact pleats and intact fit.
In fact, in addition to the central back seam, Salvatore pants are so detailed that each single stitch must be handled by hand, which is why he is known as the “sculpted cut”.
It is like a craftsman with a chisel and a knife and carving out a pair of trousers step by step, which is difficult to replicate with a machine.
In fact, for Asians, Salvatore is a little more considerate.
In general, yellow people have lower hips than blacks and whites, so we often wear pants and our legs are not long enough.
In Salvatore’s cut, the side seams of the trousers extend forward and curve upwards at the hip pockets, so they can be a good buttock lift.
Coupled with the mid-high waist and the modification of the trouser pleats, on the basis of not clinging to the protruding hips, it can improve the visual contrast between our upper and lower body shapes.
Judging by the shape of the trousers alone,
Salvatore prefers tapered pants
Mainly medium to slender cuts that gradually narrow from the hips downwards, but it depends on the customization preferences.
Generally, the cuffs are thin and flanged, and the length of the pants is adjusted to the legs to a length that just touches the upper but does not stack them.
Different from the fashionable cropped pants, it is also different from the traditional Half Break and Full Break, which look elegant and decent without becoming stodgy or old-fashioned.
In other details, Salvatore strives for perfection.
For example, buttons, except for metal buckles that appear on the side adjusters, the rest of the Salvatore will be used
Corozo ivory nut buttons
IVORY FRUIT IS THE FRUIT OF THE TAGUA COCONUT TREE THAT GROWS NEAR THE EQUATOR IN SOUTH AMERICA AND HAS ALSO BECOME AN ALTERNATIVE TO IVORY BECAUSE IT IS VERY CLOSE TO ANIMAL IVORY.
Compared to ordinary plastic buttons, Corozo buttons have a more crystalline texture.
In addition, what is amazing is the waistband of the trousers.
In some custom styles, Salvatore even uses shirt fabrics that claim to be “the best and most expensive in the world”
The waist of the trouser model brings people lightness, thoughtfulness, and extreme luxury quality enjoyment.
In terms of fabrics, Salvatore is not too “picky”, as long as it is high-quality, he will use it, from cotton and linen to wool, tweed, etc., of course, it will be decided according to the custom taste.
But if you want to wear it in the summer, Leaf personally will recommend you to choose
。 In fact, Salvatore is best known for its trousers in this fabric.
To put it simply, Fresco is a strong twisted fabric, it is firm and structured and light enough, so the line of pants made from it will be particularly sharp, and this is combined with Salvatore’s unique tailoring technology, I believe that such pants will make gentlemen salivate.
Finally, it’s the price.
Salvatore has also developed finished products. Relatively speaking, the price of the finished product will be much cheaper than the customized style, and you can buy it with a discount of three or four thousand yuan. And customized, a pair of pants are more than seven or eight thousand, and some have reached a price of tens of thousands of yuan.
So, Salvatore’s pants are not cheap.
But whether you wear it or not, Yezi believes that as a man he should learn something from the “king of pants”,
It’s like if you pick pants later, it’s better to pick on them
This article was first published from the public number:
TOPMEN Men’s Network (ID: topmencomcn)
, Sina Weibo: @TOPMEN men’s clothing network